HONG KONG- MARCH, PROTESTS & DEMOCRACY

Boats with signs parading around HK Island

We are now in Hong Kong and adjusting to the change in weather and culture. We are also staying on Hong Kong Island for the first time. That plus the political climate has made for an interesting comparison with Seoul. For those unfamiliar with Hong Kong, the actual territory is comprised of a large island, topped by a tall peak (that provides amazing views) as well as the wealthier residences that is the center of the financial district for not just Hong Kong, but the world. HK territory also includes part of the Chinese mainland and is called Kowloon. This area has a broader range social classes in residence, more parks, more room in general and flatter as well.
From what I have heard, the entire area is small with a huge population, so housing in incredibly expensive for a small living space. That often means that HK families have live-in help (often women from the Philippines or Malaysia) to take care of the children while both parents work a lot. In fact, from a few random conversations we have had, this is a driven culture where success is measured by your education and financial situation. Politically, HK has been a colony of some other nation for a long time. First the British- who originally settled on HK Island around 1839 during the Opium Wars, and more recently China. (Admittedly this is a strongly biased thing for me to write, but it is my impression).

 The recent political protests here (which we will both probably write more about in as bit) is a response to the hand-over of HK Territory from Britain to China in 1997. 

Subway exit to Victoria Park- notice black shirts

The agreement was a recognition of HK’s semi-autonomy from China- “one country- two systems” which was to last for 50 years. More recently this political separation has been eroding, from China selecting which political candidates could run for high office (thus remaining in control of the political system while appearing to support a democratic election on the surface: “yes of course you get to choose who you will vote for, but we (China) will decide the pool of candidates you get to chose from”)--. One of the earlier times I was in HK there had been a protest-- the ‘yellow umbrella movement’ to

Peaceful Protestr participants

challenge this enfringement on the more substantive democracy desired by at last some folks in HK). Anyway, the most recent protest has been a response to a possible agreement to extradite ‘criminals’ currently living in HK to the country where they had committed their crime. While (according to a newspaper article I read) originally this was intended to be able to bring a man to justice who had murdered a HK woman in Taiwan, the bill would also have include people viewed as political criminals by mainland China or even other folks who the mainland Chinese government felt were undesirable. And of course, folks here question whether some of these folks who receive a fair trial once back in the mainland.  Hence a protest. Or a series of protests.

Watchers, who later joined

What occurred when we were here (this week) was an expansion of the normally peaceful protests that occur every year on July 1 (on the 1997 anniversary , voicing displeasure at the giving of HK to China by the British (I still ponder how this is not a series of multiple colonial actions) by first the west and then from Asia. And I further ponder if HK would be able to function as an autonomous nation, given how long they have had external occupiers shaping their world view. Unknowable- and biased as well, but I am still learning and I learn best by questioning.) 

So, the protest from our/my experience:

March Participants

We started on Sunday, the day before the protest by going to St. John’s Anglican Cathedral for a multi-faith prayer service for Hong Kong. The sermon/homily focused on the importance of listening to each other and non-violence and was quite inspiring. It ended with people writing their hopes/blessing/encouragement for HK (written on a small paper cross), then coming forward by pews to place their message on a large wooden cross. By interfaith, In addition to what I assume was a range of Christian ministers, but I also a man in a Kippah and next to him an empty seat with what looked like a Pakistani name (the seat was empty).

Umbrellas at the march 

Subway going home

The next afternoon – a very hot, humid and sunny day- we took the subway to Victoria Park, the starting point of the peaceful march. We walked a bit and then stood as (probably) tens of housands of people walked by- my guess is that it was a packed group that lasted 1 ½ hours or more. People of all ages- from families with babies to old people with canes- wore black (the requested colors of the march), and held signs advocating both democracy and also peaceful protest. Later, at home we watched the news which seemed to focus on the small and very localized violence that had occurred. 

For me, having been weaned on the Watts riots in LA, even the violent part seemed focused, controlled and very specific. A friend later told me that the destruction was not random and things like precious library books were  not touched. This is a big issue for many people in HK, especially the younger folks. There were also probably up to 3 suicides of young students around this issue. One student (I read in the paper) was hoping that in giving up her life, she would become an inspiration and martyr for the cause for democracy. Wow. 

There is probably a lot more to say, but I am hoping Bruce will also share his views and thoughts. 

More on other explorations of HK soon.