WINTER IN BEIJING

The Olympic Birds Nest Stadium at our Door

Dancers Outside the Ethnic Park around the Corner

Winter in Beijing, sounds a bit like a chapter of a Chinese cookbook, but here we are in the depth of winter in Beijing. Temperatures have not been that bad, around 30 degrees (F), which is around freezing. This is so much warmer than the current temps in Minnesota (-30’s with wind chill…or ‘bone-cracking cold’ as they say in Ojibwe) so I feel grateful to be able to wander and explore without risking losing a toe or finger. It seemed to take about 3 days to settle into a rhythm in our ‘neighborhood’.  A brisk 5-minute walk takes us to a small local bakery and coffee shop (85 Degrees) where Bruce can get some yummy bread, while I have figured out that the convenience store next door has a wide array of Japanese Onigiri (whte rice, with a yummy filling rolled in seaweed), and bottles of carrot juice, so with that an a cup of hot water for some tea and we are both set for the morning. Our walk to the subway takes us past the local Ethnic Nationalities Park, where we have explored a bit already. Inside the park are examples of architecture and information of many of the Chinese ethnic minority groups including some extensive buildings of the Miao people (the probable ancestors of Hmong people today.) The English signage continues the pattern of including a huge range of minority groups into the ‘embrace of mother China’- including Tibetans, possibly some Koreans and nationalities who might more easily identify with the people in Laos or Vietnam.  (The Empire lives on, I guess).  One day, we passed a group of dancers, performing some local ethnic dances- we suspect with the intention of enticing people to buy a ticket and see the complete show.

River Miao (Hmong Ancestors??) House 

Meals after breakfast are usually in whatever area we are exploring. (Surprisingly, there don’t seem to be the large number of small ‘mom-and-pop’ stores that we found in Hong Kong. We also are totally dependent on places with picture menus or where my translator app can translate from Mandarin to English (which happens most of the time). Occasionally, there is someone who knows enough English to help us out, but often, while we always appreciate anyone who stops us asking if they can help us find where we want to go, our questions or comments are beyond their English comprehension skills. No matter if we can understand each other’s words, we always end with many smiles, shi shi’s (thank yous) and friendly face expressions.

We are also easily navigating the subway system since there is enough signage in English to help us figure out which subway and which direction we need to go.  While we don’t always select the quickest route or the exit that will take us closest to where we want to go, the walk provides an opportunity to see more.  While subways can be crowded during rush hours, we manage to squeeze and push our way into most trains. I have noticed that in Beijing fewer folks seems to stand up to give Bruce a seat (this is a society that has traditionally honored elders after all). Usually, it is middle age folks who offer their seats while most the younger men are remain glued to their cell phones as the train rushes on its path.  (I will sometimes try to catch someone’s eye, to give them a gentle ‘guilt stare’ which usually results in them offering Bruce a seat… I admit it, I have no shame in this area.) 

Our exploring has taken us to both well-known and lesser known parts of Beijing.  We explore Capital Museum, which is a large newer museum, filled with an excellent panorama (one whole floor’s worth) of the history of Beijing in relationship to world history. We also went to an exhibit on various life-cycle traditions and customs. We like this museum in part because there was some English signage so we didn’t have to make up stories about what we were viewing.  Interesting too was the range of local groups visiting the museum- from groups of school kids to older adults (wearing matching red or white hats) following a tour guide. The National Library, is also quite beautiful and filled with people reading and working on their computers. We also went to the huge National museum, which had less English signage but was filled with exhibits that seemed to be about the glory and carnage of the revolution, pictures of Mao and Marx or Lenin (or both) and contemporary sculptures to Chinese heroes, sages and artist. While I will leave it to Bruce for more details about this museum, it seems to be huge in terms of scale rather than quantity of exhibits or items. However, it was also filled with local people taking infinite selfies- I imagine they might be thinking ‘here I am with Chairman Mao’ or Here I am at the signing of the constitution of the Peoples’ Republic of China with the big guys’. (But I cant be sure.)

Another day we went to the Temple of Heaven, where the Emperor had an elaborate yearly ritual to ensure good harvest for the land. It is a beautiful building, surrounded by colorful structures. It is also located on one of the higher points in Beijing (if you don’t count the many high rise buildings) and provides a beautiful view of the city, and also is fairly cold when it is winter and the wind is blowing. But despite the cold the park around the Temple were groups of families, elders, and children involved in serious exercising or just singing inspirational songs together.

While there is more to say, I will post this and plan to write more soon. Also, hopefully Bruce will also share his adventures, especially the times he has been exploring solo, while I have been teaching.